The new Michelin Dining Guide for San Francisco is just out. As always, the most favored establishments get starred and most are out of my price range. My wife and I just completed an app for San Francisco restaurants filled with local restaurants that locals can afford to love.
Almost all of the Michelin three-star and even two-star picks cost the earth. Some cost the earth and moon. Not one of our favorites do.
Among their one-star picks, we agree with exactly two — both Luce at the InterContinental and Spruce in Presidio Heights abound in taste, creativity and culinary adventure. If we gave stars, they would get two.
But Michelin starred Aziza. We are “…less than wild about it. On a recent visit, the lamb was big, juicy and delicious. But the scallops were bland, standard-issue and unfilling — three scallops doth not a main course make. The desserts… were downright unappetizing. Dots of flavor on an unappealing platescape. The wine was corked. Oh, and the prices were high.”
For Middle Eastern fare, we much prefer Alborz, the Persian restaurant at Sutter and Van Ness. The tastes are more vibrant, the service is smarter, the portions bigger and the price roughly halved. No surprise that Alborz didn’t get a Michelin star.
Michelin does award The Village Pub in Woodside a star; we don’t list it. Why? Too pricey for the dining experience — not enough bang for the (big) buck.
What’s more, Michelin doesn’t even star what we consider the best restaurants in and around San Francisco. Where’s Capannina on Union Street? Where’s Tony’s Pizza Napoletana in North Beach? The Red Lantern in Redwood City? Mosaic in Forestville? Yoshi’s and Piperade and Dosa and even one of San Francisco’s fabulous Thai restaurants?
My hunch: too cheap, not trendy, insufficiently fancy and… and I believe Michelin and San Francisco Restaurants are looking for different things. They reward elegance and meticulousness. We go for the places San Franciscans like us love.
If you own an iPhone, iPod Touch or iPad, and you have 99 cents to recklessly squander, you can decide for yourself.
Well. That’s off my chest.
