Trendy boutique hotels may be in vogue but this hotel groupie loves the classics. Spare me cold, minimalist lobbies and rooms with showers I can’t figure out how to use. And while you’re at it, save those artsy and uncomfortable minimalist sofas for train stations. Ta-ta to impersonal stainless steel and surround me with museum-quality mosaics and stained glass that transports me to a time of grace and elegance.
Simply put, I want to be immersed in another era, the moment I arrive. But don’t get me wrong. I want every 21st century bell and whistle from flat screen TVs and WIFI in my room to world-class golf and restaurants that pack plenty of panache.
A recent trip to the midwest—yes, the midwest—sated my every desire. I never thought I’d name drop Indiana as my latest luxury escape but isn’t discovering a hidden gem what travel is all about?
French Lick Springs Resort, French Lick, Indiana and its sister resort,
West Baden Springs Hotel, West Baden, Indiana
If the axiom, “Don’t judge a book by its cover” is true then don’t judge a resort by the town its location either. After driving through miles of serene rolling hills, our arrival in French Lick is a bit of a jolt. Ditto for our arrival in West Baden, just one mile away.
Sadly, nothing else in this area has experienced the same massive refurbishment enjoyed by these two opulent hotels. A dollar store, Dairy Queen, fried food joint and some rusty old trains reminiscent of more prosperous times, serve as the area’s welcoming committee.
Once you get past the less-than-ideal town, the entry drive into either resort is stellar. Nestled among 3,000 acres of scenic and rolling land near the Hoosier National Forest, these two historic hotels embrace top-notch golf courses, two fancy spas with a total of 36 treatment rooms plus a snazzy casino that rivals you-know-where. Both hotels epitomize the grand hotel style of the early twentieth century.
While many of us aren’t familiar with this oddly-named town of French Lick, since 1845 the rich and famous have enjoyed the curative powers of the area’s ‘miracle waters’ said to cure everything from to sterility to senility.
Seven rail lines once brought guests from all over the United States to the valley to relax and take the cure. The mineral water even contributed to the town’s name. French settlers—fur traders and missionaries—settled in this area. Because the mineral water left a heavy residue of salt on the rocks, it attracted animals from a wide region to come and lick the salt deposit — hence the name, French Lick.
Over the years these two resorts have had many owners but none more generous than the current one, Bloomington, Indiana billionaire Bill Cook. He invested over $500 million to restore both hotels to the days when the likes of Frank Sinatra, Greta Garbo, Lana Turner were frequent guests. This massive renovation was one of the largest privately funded projects of this type in the nation.
The French Lick and West Baden Springs resorts are both spectacular but entirely different. The lobby of French Lick Springs Hotel feels like an old world European hotel embellished with 5,000 square feet of gold leafing, Italian mosaic floors and colorfully painted ceilings a la the Sistine Chapel.
This resort connects to a casino with 1,300 slot machines and 41 table games and a first-rate spa where many treatments include the famed mineral waters.
Over a dozen dining options range from casual to classy. Our most memorable meal was at the 1875: The Steakhouse, deftly managed by Thomas O’Connor, Food and Beverage Manager. This guy knows his wine. He made superb recommendations while keeping a watchful eye on every table in the room (I’m still salivating over memories of my extraordinary halibut accompanied by a perfect Sauvignon Blanc). Round the clock shuttle service to and fro both hotels make access to all amenities at either hotel a breeze.
Describing a place as jaw-dropping is often overused but it’s right on target when describing the 200-foot diameter, six-story domed atrium at the West Baden Springs Hotel. It’s a head-turner even for the savviest traveler. This dome was once dubbed the “Eighth Wonder of the World” and is a National Historic Landmark. Before the construction of the Houston Astrodome, it was the world’s largest free-span dome.
Standing in this grand rotunda it’s easy to be awed, not only by the restoration’s success but the fact that the structure was ever built to begin with. Rooms rise in six tiers (some with balconies) and overlook the massive domed courtyard. Outer rooms have views of manicured gardens.
Like its sister property in French Lick, the West Baden Springs Hotel was originally built as a health resort. The town of West Baden and the resort were named after the famed mineral springs in Wiesbaden, Germany. This resort also attracted its share of the rich and famous including Diamond Jim Brady and Al Capone. A more recent claim to fame, NBA Superstar, Larry Byrd was born in the town of West Baden. Both resorts feature a total of 689 rooms and suites and 45 holes of golf.
For some, the area’s lure is mineral water. For us, it is golf. After reading the rave reviews about the resort’s new Pete Dye mountain golf course, we had to play it.
Why the fuss? For starters, in 2010 the PGA of America will play its PGA Professionals National Championship on this course — the first of several high profile professional events. Because of this course, French Lick Resort just made its debut on Golf Digest Magazine’s list of premier golf resorts joining other lofty golf destinations such as Pinehurst, Pebble Beach and Sea Island. It ranks 29th among the Top 75 resorts in the country.
Hall of Fame architect, Pete Dye, says this course is arguably the best inland location he has ever worked on. “I kept saying, it’s almost impossible to build it here,” says Dye. “The terrain is so severe but if I can walk it, anybody can walk it. A lot of mountain courses have great views but you can’t walk them,” he adds.
Clearly proud of his accomplishment on this challenging site Dye says, “The 18th hole at Pebble Beach has great scenery and is a very fine par 5 hole. But put the same hole in Iowa and it would be just another golf hole. The ambiance of what you see at French Lick is unbelievable, it’s an unbelievable site.”
Few courses equal this dramatic setting. Built on the highest point in Indiana, the course offers spectacular views that stretch for over 40 miles. This bold site offers a variety of elevation changes, rugged terrain, narrow fairways and outrageous bunkers. After absorbing the breathtaking vistas the next thing you notice is the length of the course.
It has the ability of playing more than 8,100 yards from the professional tees. The clubhouse and full service pro shop are in a beautifully renovated turn-of-the century mansion that’s perched on the highest point (almost 1,000 feet above sea level) with panoramic views in every direction.
Dye, an Indiana native and inductee into the Golf Hall of Fame, is known worldwide for his innovative course designs including the famous and tough TPC Sawgrass course in Florida, the Ocean Course at Kiawah Island, Whistling Straits in Wisconsin and the challenging “Teeth of the Dog” course at Casa de Campo in the Dominican Republic, one of Dye’s personal favorites.
Complementing the new Pete Dye creation at French Lick Resort is the historic Donald Ross links-style course where legendary Walter Hagen won the 1924 PGA Championship. It has just experienced a $4.6 million restoration. This major investment brings the course back to Ross’s original design including all 35 original bunkers with his trademark flat bottoms, deep gnarly faces and severe, undulating greens.
French Lick is the only resort in the world that has the work of two of golf’s greatest architects, the classic golf course designs of Donald Ross with the modern day style of the legendary Pete Dye.
While we spent three splendid days immersed in golf, don’t fret if you don’t play the game. There are plenty of other things to do at this Indiana oasis — hike or bike on three scenic trails or swim in massive indoor or outdoor pools. Or go bowling, play pool, try your hand at horseback riding or simply lollygag in the spa. Or stroll the peaceful gardens and enjoy the moment. Every glorious moment.
For information call: 888 936-9360 or www.frenchlick.com
