Bermuda proves that good things come in small packages. Located 650 miles east of Cape Hatteras, N.C., Bermuda comprises 181 islands and islets, packing four centuries of history and heritage into 21 square miles.
Less than a two-hour flight from most East Coast hubs, this British Colony founded in 1609 offers far more than the usual island come-ons of pink sand beaches and golf course greens, snorkeling with fish and swimming with dolphins, dark-and-stormy cocktails and rum punches. Tear yourself away from the Atlantic island’s icons to visit or experience these baker’s dozen sights and activities.
And get this: Brmuda is celebrating its 400th anniversary with a $400 credit on stays of at least four nights at participating properties.
1. Training walks: Built between 1926 and 1931, Bermuda’s Railway had the dubious distinction of being not only the most expensive railroad per mile ever built but also, at 2.5 miles per year, the slowest. “Old Rattle and Shake,” as it was nicknamed, operated for only 17 years. Its legacy, the Bermuda Railway Trail’s 21 miles of scenic right-of-way, lives on—without the rattle or shake. Check with the Walking Club of Bermuda about joining it on one of its daily hikes.
2. Time travel: Bermuda’s history comes to life in St. George, founded in 1609 when a group of Virginia-bound colonists were shipwrecked. Listen for the Town Crier announcing demonstrations of the ducking stool, a medieval-looking contraption for punishing nags and gossips with a dip in the harbor. Wander the narrow streets; visit museums and gardens; sample fragrances at the Bermuda Perfumery. Don’t miss St. Peter’s, where services have been held since 1612, making it the oldest, continually used Anglican church in the New World.
3. Zoo-la-la: No lions, no tigers, no bears; instead, fish and birds and wallabies inhabit the Bermuda Aquarium, Museum, and Zoo. More than 100 species of indigenous Bermuda fish are on view in nearly two dozen small tanks and a 140,000-gallon coral-reef tank. Also here are exhibits on reptiles, primates, and birds, including a flock of flamingoes; don’t miss the tented aviary or the Galapagos tortoises. The museum is an excellent primer on the islands natural history. Very kid friendly.
4. See worthy: Interactive and fascinating presentations and exhibits covering all facets of the world’s oceans, with an emphasis on Bermuda, fill the Bermuda Underwater Exploration Institute. The simulated dive to the ocean depths in the Nautilus-X2 submersible is a bit hokey, but the exhibits on the other side make up for it. Kid friendly
5. Science minded: Every Wednesday at 10 a.m., the Bermuda Institute of Ocean Sciences offers a free tour of its labs and grounds, complete with an overview of the institute’s history and updates on current projects.
6. Tea or cocktails: For a taste of Bermuda’s British heritage, take an afternoon break at the Fairmont Hamilton Princess for a proper tea, complete with scones slathered with Devonshire cream, tea sandwiches, and pastries. Too stuffy? Join Bermudians at the Princess on Friday afternoons for Happy Hour: cocktails, light barbecue fare, and music.
7. Swizzle and sweet: Sure it’s touristy, but The Swizzle Inn, Bermuda’s oldest pub, is a must stop. The rum swizzle, what some consider the island’s national drink, was first created here in the 1930s. The mix of Gosling’s Black Seal and Gold rums, fruit juices, falernum (a local sweet syrup) and “secret ingredients” packs a powerful punch—as the saying goes, Swizzle Inn, swagger out (pair it with a wahoo burger). Afterwards, cross the street for the island’s best homemade ice cream.
8. Worth keeping: The Dockyard, a.k.a. the Gibraltar of the West, was the Atlantic headquarters of the Royal Navy from the early 19th to mid 20th centuries. Now occupying the Dockyard’s Keep is the Bermuda Maritime Museum. It comprises 10 buildings. The recently restored Commissioner’s House caps the grounds and is filled with exhibits ranging from island history to maritime art. The Dockyard’s lower now house the Bermuda Arts Centre, Bermuda Craft Market, Bermuda Rum Cake Factory (free samples!), Bermuda Glassworks (glass-blowing demonstrations), Bermuda Clayworks, Clocktower Shopping Mall, and restaurants.
9. Fish story: The signature finish to Bermuda’s deep flavorful fish chowder is seasoning it with black rum and sherry peppers. It’s available on almost every menu, but it’s hard to beat the versions served at Little Venice, in Hamilton, or the Salt Rock Grill, in Somerset, where you can snag an outdoor table and savor the view along with the chowder.
10. Memorable meal: It’s hard to beat the service, views, water-front ambiance, and especially the fare at the Waterlot Inn, an elegant steakhouse in a home dating from 1670. It’s pricey, but worth the splurge. Two hints: First, portions are huge, so take that into consideration when ordering; second, save room for the toffee sticky pudding for dessert.
11. Crystal clear: Discovered in 1907 by two boys who lost a ball while playing cricket, the Crystal Caves opened to the public in 1909. Descend 81 steps to a world of stalactites, stalagmites, columns (formed when the former two meet), and an underwater tidal lake of astoundingly clear and deep aquamarine water.
12. Go natural: Seek refuge from the sun in one of Bermuda’s nature reserves or forts. Climb the ramparts of Fort Hamilton for views over the city and harbor, then descend into the moat, now filled with native plants and trees. Wander through Blue Hole Park and Tom Moore’s Jungle, adjacent parks with caves to explore, paths to hike, and bird blinds for watching the more than 250 species of birds that migrate over the country in October. Mosey along the boardwalk through Paget Marsh. View ornamental plants at the Botanical Gardens.
13. Parting thoughts for a Bermudaful world: Every weekday morning Johnny Barnes stations himself on the major thoroughfare into Hamilton. He greets commuters with a wave, a smile, a kiss: “Good morning,” he calls, “I love you.” Horns toot, drivers wave back, and they smile. “The good Lord and I try to make people happy,” Barnes says, between waves. “If each individual in the world tried to make one person happy, what a beautiful world this would be.”
Hilary Nangle is freelance travel writer and USA’s Maine expert. She lives, shops and drives the back roads there and has written about the state for decades, including three guidebooks — Moon Coastal Maine, Moon Acadia National Park, and Moon Maine. During mud season, she likes to go somewhere warm and sunny, like Bermuda.
Visit her Web site and read her blog for more insights about her travels.
I have three passions in life: Maine, traveling and skiing. Okay, four: chocolate. Maybe five, spa-ing (is there such a word?). I guess writing would be my sixth passion. And cheese, oh yeah, artisan-crafted and farmstead cheeses. Did I mention lobster? What can I say, I’m a passionate kinda gal. You can find more of my tips for traveling through Maine at: Maine Travel Maven. My three Moon Maine guidebooks are — Maine, Coastal Maine, and Acadia National Park. They are available at bookstores and online.
